Deco Yarns

Espiritu Santo- A great holiday for the non-diving Divas and gung - ho Divers.

I just have to share my recent holiday experience... WOW! Santo has so much more to offer on top of the unreal diving…

Both our husbands are middle age diving crazy’s and are dead set pumped on diving the President Coolidge in Santo as many times as humanly possible in our 7 day stay. Naomi and I are non divers and did not know what to expect or how we would fill our time as we understood there wasn’t much more to do than dive on this island. Thinking we were going to be bored, and not to motioned be forced to listed to the dulcet drone’s of these two testosterone frenzied diver’s talking dive speak 24-7 for the next week just did not excite us. But like good understanding partners we accompanied our men on their diving adventure.

We arrived in Santo on the evening flight; the sunset landing over this island paradise surrounded by blue water was spectacular. We disembarked and entered the terminal here we were pleasantly greeted by a bus driver with the biggest shiny white grin I had ever seen, He shook our hands and said “My name is Timmy, welcome to Santo, are you staying at Deco Stop Lodge?” we replied. “Yes we are in fact”, he said with a chuckle, “Cool Bananas no worries mate”. Then he commenced the task of carrying the 10 tonne bags of boys toy’s out to the bus and effortlessly tossed them on to the rack on the roof... We all loaded our selves in and of we went. It was only a 10 minute trip through what looked like a lush green pacific island, palm trees, coconuts and hibiscus draped trees lined the road. The blue water lapping the beaches where children swam and played and wildly waved as we whizzed by. Naomi and I thought “hey this doesn’t look so bad after all it has a happy sunny feel about it”.

We arrived at the lodge and were greeted by a lovely bunch of island ladies with big smiles in colourful ribboned mother Hubbard island dresses, they already new our names it was so nice and welcoming.. They took us to our respective units with a view to die for, while the guy’s delved strait into the dive bags to sort their gear and charge their torches for their big adventure in the morning Naomie and I stepped out side on to the wooden balcony and admired the bright pink and gold sky that met the blue waters of The Segond Channel. As we chatted, one of the local ladies that greeted us popped her head around the corner and softly asked if we would like some snack’s and a glass of wine, we replied “that would be lovely thank you” and from the room the one of the boy’s hollered “Oh! You wanna grab two beers while you there love”...

We made our way out to the huge veranda, with a sunken infinity pool centred as a feature that graced the warmly lit restaurant. Here we sat and watched one of the most beautiful sunsets I have seen in my life...

It was time for dinner; we all choose the lobster from an amazing menu that had so much to choose from. Our table was set with all matching décor in tones of blue. In the centre was a glowing candle, casting soft light on a small vase of colourful flowers... things that girl’s notice... But the guys were so pumped, thumbing through pages of info on the dives various they were about to make. The waitress arrived with our order accompanied by a basket of warm French bread. The big oval white plate, with a huge lobster in a cheesy topped Mornay sauce was a picture. Little finger bowels arrived with a floating lime and a set of crackers were the weapons of choice. Beeeeeeeeeeutiful!

I can see we are not going to loose weight on this holiday, the meal was amazing. We all raised our glasses toasting to a brilliant holiday, ching ching! We then headed of to bed... In anticipation of what lied ahead.

Morning Day One!

It’s a bustling little Lodge, about five other couples and some young folk sat chatting in the restaurant as the local ladies ran around making sure everything was just right and all had sufficient to eat. Everyone warmly greeting us with a hardy” Good morning” as we walked up the steps to our complimentary Continental B/fast. Hot coffee, tea and big jug of juice surrounded by cereals, local fresh fruit’s endless quantities of warm toast with a big basket of jams etc were all laid out on the help your self buffet...

The boy’s were set and ready to go; up to the front gate they were told! 8:30 pick up.. The Allen Power’s bus arrived right on time... Allan was the driver “all aboard” he hollered as the bus came to a stop. Oh the excitement! The guy’s looked like little kids at charismas. About ten divers dumped all their gear in the big trailer and run around and jumped in the bus... of they trundled to the dive site, all wildly chatting away to the other divers as they drove of.

Naomi and I looked at each other and said... “ok! now what?” We walked back to the restaurant and finished our coffee with Cathie the owner. We started chatting about our job’s the kids and then she started to tell us about all the fantastic things there are to do here. Wide eyed we listed with excitement. With in half an hour we had packed our towels, sunnies, mask , snorkel and the ladies have made us a lovely picnic lunch. So up to the front gate we went, just like the guy’s ready for our big adventure.  We decided that day one we would go on the Santo Highlights Tour, Timmy, the guy that met us at the airport was our tour guide, in the bus and of we went, leaving the town of Luganville entering lush dense rain forests lined with white coral roads up to the hilltops where you can see forever. We arrived at Fanafo custom village, the home and final resting place of Jimmy Stevens, Santo’s one time rebel leader. In 1991, Vanuatu’s first Prime Minister, Father Walter Lini, had Stevens’ released. He returned to his family home in Fanafo and lived a somewhat quiet life until his death in 1994. “We got to see how and where the rebels met, and were greeted by the direct descendents of Jimmy Stevens.” We had no idea about the history of this place.. It was fascinating. We then headed further north still in Fanafo, here we visited beautiful Golden Beach, a truly stunning South Pacific beach with its fine white sand and crystal clear waters we decided this was the perfect spot for lunch and a swim. Back in the bus and of to the Matavulu Blue Hole, Timmy, our tour guide, chatted as we drove through some fantastic scenery he told us that prior to Independence, Vanuatu was ruled by France and Britain in a condominium government. Many on Espiritu Santo resented the foreign rule and by the late 70s, a rebellious movement lead by Jimmy Stevens was formed. The rebels sought to have Santo excluded from the condominium and be allowed self-rule. Fanafo was the rebel’s base and Jimmy Stevens lived there until his capture by the French and British authorities. After spending 11 years in jail, Jimmy Stevens’ health deteriorated. Heading further North of Fanafo,. On the drive back in to town we stopped off at one of the many famous Blue Holes for a refreshing swim. We were amazed at the colour and clarity of this freshwater swimming hole, the local kids joined us, swinging from a rope that hung over the blue hole from fantastic old oak tree... They were having so much fun... it was lovely to watch. We were so glad we had bought our snorkel and mask, there was so much to look at... we spent a good hour there and then made our way home to Deco Stop for a chardonnay sunset with snacks. We all sat and chatted about our fantastic day as the boy’s eagerly shared their dive adventure... Dinner and bed and ready for day two!

Up for breakfast, Day Two.

The the boy’s are stoked about another big day of diving. Naomi and I have decided that to day we will do the World War II History Tour . So the ladies packed us up another scrumptious picnic lunch we grabbed our sunnies, towel sun cream mask and snorkel and of we went. It’s an incredible fact that Santo was a home to 100,000 military personnel during the II World War, and boasted five airfields, four hospitals and many services for the armed forces that were based here. It was a short but scenic drive to Million Dollar Point; this was where the American Military dumped tonnes of equipment in to the ocean at the end of the war. It was a lovely golden sandy beach but beneath the blue water lay a surprise. This historic point was excellent for snorkelling, so in we went, unbelievable there was everything from bulldozers and trucks to ammunition and Coke bottles. We spent a good two hours there even fossicking along the beach turned up some great blue green and White Sea glass and so many other things were melted into the rocks where the troops lit bonfires to burn all office equipment etc. I’m a bit of a history buff, but both Naomi and I so enjoyed Timmy’s stories about Santo during the war as we set out to find the wreckage of bombers and various relics that literally are scattered around the island. He took us to a demolished hospital site, it was an eerie feeling, walking through a once bustling hospital site that looks more like a botanical garden tended by a local family that have built their home on one of the many remaining concrete slabs, We then visited the house site of the famous Lt James a Michener who was based here, author of the famous Tales Of The South Pacific then up the hill to an incredible military hospital base with a million dollar view. It was like a post card. Well, we were nearing the end of day two so we began our trek back to Deco Stop Lodge, where we found the boys on our special spot on the veranda. They had their beer and snacks all sorted the ladies brought out our chilled glasses of chardonnay and there we sat and absorbed another beautiful sun set and exchanged our adventure stories of the day! Back for a shower, then time foe another fabulous dinner and of to bed...

Wow! Its day three already.

Up for breakfast and the guy’s are rapped with the diving The President Coolidge. They said she has so many holds and many places undiscovered but Naomi and I were having the same experience above the water… We’re having a ball! Well we got the lads of on their dive and today we are going on the Millennium Cave Tour. Cath tells us that this is a relatively new tour and boasts some awesome walking tracks and heaps of adventure. Not for the faint hearted. Both Naomi and I walk every morning before work so we reckon we can handle it, so picnic lunch and adventure kit packed and ready! Of we go! The drive through the inner island is never disappointing, waving at the locals as we pass, after about 20 minutes we stopped at a stall and Timmy chopped the top of two coconut’s he offered us a cool drink of coconut water. Yum! So sweet, well no time to waste, back in the bus and within ten minutes we were at Fonaspef Village. We were greeted by the chief and welcomed by the friendly villagers. We then set of on our bush walk. I’d have to say though some level of fitness was required but, with out a doubt, it was worth the effort, we were amazed at the stunning scenery.” Samuel our guide led us through narrow jungle paths, across creeks and cascades and over bamboo bridges to reach the Millennium Cave. The massive cave stretched 20m across and some 50m high. We climbed a bamboo ladder that took to the mouth of the cave down to a crystal clear pool fed by a small cascade. From here we journeyed through a magical realm of sparkling stalactites and stalagmites, with freshwater pools and thousands of tiny bats and swallows, their homes made high up in the roof of the cave. Once we made your way through the cave to the riverside, it’s time for a light lunch and a little rest. Ok up again! We gave our back packs to one of the guides and he took our bags back to village where we were to return too. That’ was great, we had nothing to carry now…Samuel gave us a little inflatable ring to hang on to and of we floated down the fresh water river towards home. Whilst floating down the shallow quick flowing river, we couldn’t help but take in the breathtaking scenery with its thermal falls and towering rock faces. I said to Naomi,” you can’t get any closer to nature than this!” It was a full day trip with lots of walking but we had never done anything like this before in our lives it was so wonderful. It was energetic but so worth it. We got a bit wet and muddy but we washed our old running shoes and they were soon dry. Our walk finished at the village where the tour started and Timmy was ready and waiting. The villagers had platters of fruit and hot tea ready for our arrival, they were so hospitable. After a little rest and some socialising we boarded our bus for home. On arrival everyone at Deco stop lodge was fascinated by our adventure, We had a good shower and assumed our position on the big veranda with the boy’s, a well deserved Chardonnay, snacks and of course another paradise sunset. They were skiting about how they had a great dive down to the “Lady “, but I think we showed them up with our big day! Another beautiful menu- great dinner and strait in to bed.. That was us for the day!

Oh no! It was day four!

The week seemed to go so fast!

We had it sorted now! Same ritual, Up in the morning for breakfast, It’s such a social place every one mingles and chats about their activities… we made so many friends.. We got the boy’s off- fed and water and on the dive bus!

Naomi wanted to take it a bit easier today so we’ve decided today we’ll have a cruisey one…So the Deco ladies have packed us up another superb picnic lunch but we’ve decided we’ll do it in real “ladies of leisure” fashion, we popped a bottle of champagne and some glasses in with our picnic. We headed of to Golden Beach & Jackie’s Blue Hole It was so nice there we thought we’d pop back. We enjoyed a relaxing day at beautiful Golden beach, sipped cold champagne in the sun and worked on our tan. The water was so blue and such an inviting temperature we swam, had girly chats and just enjoyed the peace and relaxation. After lunch we drove to Port Orly, a lovely fishing village with heaps of history, The beach here was also so white and lined with dugout canoe’s and locals repairing their fishing nets.. The kids were playing in the water and the mothers were sitting under the tree’s having girly chats I’d expect. This would also of made a lovely picnic and swimming spot with crystal clear waters and fine powder white sand. We sooo didn’t want to leave. But back on the bus and a stop of at the Blue Hole for a refreshing dip to wash of the salt and sand on the way home. We were so surprised at the transparency of this freshwater natural swimming pool it was a bit chilly but refreshing.! Homeward bound and back to our fave spot on the veranda. The boy’s were already there & they had the routine down pat drinks and snack ready to enjoy... They had a good day to, they were buzzing. Evidentially the viz (dive Speak!!) was awesome they said... The whole Lodge was buzzing with contented diver‘s and Divas.. The sunset was a fiery gold... so beautiful... The trade winds whispered by as we all sat swapping stories of a great day... We settled into another superb candle light dinner and of to bed to rest up for another day ahead filled with more adventure..

Day number five was already here.

We can’t believe there is only two more sleeps to go after this. The time was speeding past and every day has been jam packed with things to do! Naomi and I are sticking with the plan, feed the boy’s put them on the bus and of we go for more girly fun.

All girls like to shop right?? So we’ve decided to head in to town and check the markets and shops.. The markets were jam packed with tables filled with colourful flowers, baskets of vegetables, the sweetest bananas, big golden pine apples, coconut’s peanuts.. More than you would find in Woolies or Coles and much fresher strait out the ground or of a tree.

Oh! ,a great atmosphere to boot, this is where the locals come to catch up on the latest town gossip.. There were sea shells, baskets, carvings, beads just so much to look at. We wandered down the main street of Luganville poking around in all the little shops, we bought some sarongs and heaps of tiddly bits to take home the we wandered up to Deco Stop Lodge to meet the boy’s for lunch. They have the afternoon of as they are doing a night dive to night so we decided the four of us will go up on the Riri Riri River “Dugout” Canoe Adventure It was an adventure at that. It was only a 30-minute bus trip from Deco Stop Lodge to the mouth of the beautiful Riri Riri River. Timmy is the guru of the dugout evidently.. It’s a tricky paddling style to master so the boys gave up and decided to leave it to the master. He paddled our locally made ‘dugout’ canoe, whilst we sat back absorbed the beautiful tropical scenery. It was so still and quite, some local cattle came down to drink, their reflection was perfect in the still water. We could see freshwater prawns and fish, electric blue dragon flies, and remnants of an old bridge built by the Americans during World War II. As the river water became bluer, we all new we were not far from the river source, the Matavulu Blue Hole, a huge freshwater artesian spring of iridescent blue fresh water, unique in its colour from the effect of limestone combining with freshwater. The clarity was so amazing! We played silly buggers and jumped in to cool of titillating but a refreshing swim, we had our masks and snorkels for a closer look below. After our swim we canoed back down the river to the little beach, here our bus was waiting. So we all towelled of and jumped in the bus and headed back for our favourite watering hole on our big veranda. Another successful and fun day! Sweet potato snacks to night. We were all ravenous after our canoe adventure so boys got the drinks and we assumed position. Ready to witness the end of another beautiful day in Santo.. We watched the sunset and had more girly chats and the boys headed of for their night dive and then came back for dinner at about 7:30 They so enjoyed it, they were jumping out of their skin trying to explain the flash light fish! Well that was us done! Dinner and bed..

Day number six!

(where has this week gone?)

We are all flying out tomorrow afternoon so the boys can only get one last deep dive in.. The stern they said. That’s at about 65 meters! They are more than excited to say the least,

So we fed and watered the diving frenzied boys, popped them on the bus and we headed of to Vil Vil Custom Village

It was only a half-day tour it was a relaxing way to experience Santo’s famous culture. This was Traditional Custom Village we were so looking forward to this. Our tour began with a lazy drive through the rugged countryside of Santo, we saw and experience the many uses of the native flora it was like going back in time, we drove past local cattle farms and coconut plantations, this life style is obviously the backbone of the Ni-Vanuatu economy. Once we arrived at Vil Vil Custom Village we were welcomed by the Chief and his community with traditional songs and dances depicting rituals and traditions passed down from generation to generation. We couldn’t help but get caught up in the tribal atmosphere, with the hypnotic banging of the tam tams and harmonic voices of these proud people it was a wonderful spectacle. All men, women and piccaninnies (children) have their place and role within this village. We were taken through the different areas of the village and learnt how imperative each role is to the success and survival of the village. The men primarily spend their days building and maintaining the huts and Nakamal of the village. They taught us that Ni- Vanuatu use leaves from the Natangora palm for the roofing of their homes. The leaf, which can last as long as 15 years and survive terrific storms and cyclones, is made from the local Natangora tree. It’s amazing stuff. One of the other important jobs for the men is the cultivating and preparation of Kava. A relative of the pepper plant, the kava roots are ground and mixed with water to create a narcotic drink sculled from a coconut shell. Traditionally used in ceremonies, Kava is now widely drunk for its relaxing properties, at the end of a hard days work. The Nakamal is where the men and boys spend their afternoons. A hut which is taboo to women, it is the place where men prepare and drink the kava, recite traditional songs and pass on the skills of their ancestors to their sons. We were allowed to share a cup with the chief.. it was wonderful. The Women learn from an early age the skills required to make baskets, mats and custom dress from the Pandanus plant. The long leaves are stripped and slashed into thin strips, which are then sun dried. To create the variety of colours used to decorate when weaving, a vegetable is crushed and its colouring boiled with the strips. Once dried, they are ready for weaving. The Vil Vil Village people were so proud to share their heritage with us, and it was their simplistic lifestyle and inherent happiness which made this tour so rewarding.

They had some lovely baskets for sale; we bought a few to take home. They then finished with the fare well dance, took lots of great photo’s and of we went to Oyster Island. The boy’s were going to catch a bus up there and meet us and so they did.

We got to the shore across from the island Banked on the big gas cylinder with a banging stick Jean Pier and His wife Anna, both French chefs, run a fantastic little restaurant on the island and were keen to cook us up a seafood feast it was fantastic.. We spent the afternoon chatting with them, they have lived here for 15 years and have another restaurant in Vila that their son runs. They had so many funny yarns to tell they were great company after sharing to many French wines and decided it was time to head home to Deco.. Back to our special spot on the veranda we watched the sun fall into the ocean again. We had a light dinner and went to bed.. It’s pack up day tomorrow and we don’t want to go home at all!

Well here you have its day seven!

We are all exhausted from this fantastic holiday!

Us the adventure divas and the boys the adrenalin divers... Up for our last breakfast here in Deco Stop Lodge, we have made such good friends with the staff and will miss them all terribly. No to mention the fibulas friendships we have made with all the other folk that were staying at the same time... What a great lot.

We sadly packed up all our gear and headed over to Aore Resort on the 11:30 ferry for our last lunch, two other couples who were on the same flight joined us. It was lovely then Back to Deco to say all our good by... Naomi had a tear in her eye as we kissed all our friends good- by, we jumped on Timmy’s bus for the last time and headed to the Pekoa airport.

Naomi and I had one of the best and most informing holidays of our life time so a message to all you non diving Divas.

NOTE: There is definitely much more to do in Santo than ever, Jump on that plane and get in to it, Don’t let your man talk you out of it!..

Santo so totally rocks, don’t let them tell you anything else and don’t let the guy’s have all the fun.. We had a ball.

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